The following water distiller design is derived from the design that Mike offered on the Troubled Times website. This design, with it's condensing pot, can produce a 1/2 gallon of distilled water every hour, or 1 cup (8 oz.) every 7.5 minutes. The parts are all stainless steel. Water distillation is the one and only method recommended by the Zetas to purify your water. In all likelihood, water distillation will be needed before the hour of the poleshift even arrives. Building a water distiller seems simple but it is not all that easy. An efficient water distiller that can be operated with any heat source, most importanly fire, cannot necessarily be bought, so many look to other ways of water purification, mainly the water filter. It will always be a matter of opinion, but for those with children who will depend on them, it is urged to take a hard look at reality and what a water filter can do for you in the long term. Survival is no easy matter regardless of preparations, but since water is one of the most important aspects of survival, it should be one of the first steps taken.

I've been experimenting with different distiller designs for several years now, all the while I knew Mike's design was the best. I was intimidated by it since I had no metal working skills and wood was hard enough to work with. All the designs I came up with didn't even come close to what Mike's design could accomplish, so I sort of gave up for a while. Finally I got my act together since I don't like giving up, and created a prototype using aluminum and copper parts, since they are easier to work with than stainless steel. There were a number of failures on my part and the feeling that I wasn't going to conquer this task. I do not have welding skills, but I bought a mini kit and soon found out that I can't even keep the flame lit once the oxygen is turned on. After about 10 seconds of trying to weld, the flame would burn out, and make a loud noise at the same time which added to my insecurity. I finally bought a simple and safer propane torch and decided on lead free solder. It took me a while to get the hang of it and I found that you need the soldering flux that plumbers use or the solder will not bond well. But once it's properly done, the connection is very sturdy. Finally I had a complete distiller made of aluminum and copper that performed to my expectations of a 1/2 gallon every hour. Then the complaints came in that distilled water leached aluminum and copper, making it unsafe to drink in the long term. Apparently only stainless steel was acceptable. I didn't buy into this myth because logic and common sense tell a different story (note water tests for proof), but in an effort to appease the crowd and hopefully make a difference in the lives of children that must rely on adults for their future, an all stainless steel water distiller was made which costs more and is a metal that is much tougher to work with.

Plans are provided by Howard based on the specifications given to him and these can be taken to a metal worker if you do not feel comfortable making one yourself. In fact, I would recommend it since welding would be considered stronger and more reliable than soldering. If you choose to solder like I did, it should be noted that solder does not bond well with stainless steel, so all connections will have to be made extra tight to begin with and the solder acts like more of a gasket. But with aluminum and copper, the solder bonds very well.

This distiller utilizes a stainless steel pot to boil the contaminated water. A stainless steel pizza pan then sits on top. By using a pizza pan, it can be used on just about anything that can boil water, making it versatile. The steam travels up the 4 stainless steel tubes, into the stainless steel pie pan, where it hits the bottom of the stainless steel condensing pot that sits on top of the pie pan. The water in this pot creates the necessary temperature change to condense the steam into distilled water, where it collects in the pie pan and empties through the stainless steel drain tube. A high temperature, inert food grade silicone tube can be attached to the drain tube in order to allow water to drain into a collection container of your choice. Make sure the silicone tube has the same OD (outer diameter) of the drain tube, in this case 1/4". If the silicone tube is even just a bit larger, chances are it won't fit tight enough. To enlarge the end of a silicone tube to fit perfectly, heat it up in boiling water and then insert an object such as a pen to enlarge the tube just enough to fit over the stainless steel drain tube perfectly.

The part that will have to be constructed consists of a 16" stainless steel pizza pan, a 9" stainless steel pie pan, 4 pieces of stainless steel tubing - 1/2" OD (outer diameter) - cut to 8" each, and 1 stainless steel tube - 1/4 " OD - cut to 7-8" as the drainage tube. High temperature silicone tubing also comes in handy. It's guaranteed inert for beverages and withstands temps of up to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. I use 1/2" OD silicone tubing, split down the middle with scissors, and place it around the lip of the bottom boiling pot to create a better seal so steam will not escape and the system remains pressurized. The top condensing pot provides weight that seems to keep things tight enough so steam will either not escape, or very little escapes. I find that even if a small amount of steam escapes, the production results are the same. If enough steam escapes though, the system won't be pressurized very well and production can be cut in half, which is actually still more water than most electric distillers on the market can produce.

Feel free to experiment if you wish with the design. Whether you make your distiller from all stainless steel, or an aluminum/copper combo, you will have a means of purifying any water source at your disposal in the aftertime. Bacteria and viruses will be killed by the boiling process and all heavy metals including lead and mercury will be left behind as the water evaporates on it's way to the condensing chamber. Further testing will be done to deal with chemicals that also evaporate and condense such as alcohol and petrol chemicals. You will know if this is in your water in any case from both the smell and the sheen it would produce on top of the water. I will be testing to see how long it takes to boil these contaminants off, or if they can be removed effectively enough through regular charcoal and/or sand. All results will be posted and it's encouraged that others try as well and post any constructive ideas.

The following water purity tests were conducted with a TDS meter. TDS stands for Total Dissolved Solids which are the total amount of mobile charged ions, including minerals, salts, or metals dissolved in a given volume of water. TDS, which is based on conductivity, is expressed in parts per million (ppm). TDS includes any conductive inorganic element present other than the pure water molecules. TDS affects everything that consumes, lives in or uses water, from fish and plants to plumbing and laboratories. For people, the lower the TDS level in the water you drink, the more efficiently your body's cells are hydrated. The higher the TDS level in water, the greater the probability of harmful contaminants that can pose health risks or hinder the absorption of water. The U.S. EPA's Maximum Contaminant Level of TDS for human consumption is 500 ppm. Though I've seen water testing done first hand at a water treatment plant, and after the first stage of purification, the water was at 500 ppm and it looked dirty and smelled rotten. The purest water after all treatments was 50 ppm and was worthy of any bottled water. After this water made it's way through all the pipes to your house, it would no longer be so pure. TDS meters can be used to check the performance of water filters and ensure your tap water is acceptable.

The TDS meter used for these tests is brand new and I manually calibrated it using a hydroponic calibrating solution set at 342 ppm. When choosing a calibrating solution, make sure to get one that is closest to your target readings to ensure maximum accuracy. For example, 1500 ppm would be too high, but would still give you acceptable accuracy. The TDS meter used in these tests has an accuracy discrepancy of +/- 2%, which is very acceptable. Each water sample was tested multiple times to ensure accuracy as well. Here are the results from round 1 -

Hot tap water stored in a tank - 200 ppm
Iced Tea sweetened with HFCS - 180 ppm
Cold running tap water - 145-150 ppm
Cold tap water run through a Pure Source 2 water filter - 130 ppm
First cup of distilled water from aluminum/copper water distiller - 10 ppm
Second cup of distilled water from aluminum/copper water distiller - 7 ppm
First cup of distilled water from all stainless steel water distiller - 2 ppm
Third cup of distilled water from all stainless steel water distiller - 1 ppm

That is correct. There were only 1-2 particles per million detectable in the distilled water from the stainless steel distiller. It just doesn't get much purer than that. There were a few more particles detected in the aluminum/copper distilled water. The condensing pot used with that distiller was also aluminum. A very old pot that looked questionable but I used it anyway for the sake of science. 7-10 ppm is still incredibly pure and is too small of an amount to cause any long term problems. I would be more concerned about what the 130 ppm is in the filtered water, but still, that is as pure of water as a person really needs.

That leaves one of the final arguments, which is that somehow you will lose minerals by drinking distilled water. This one is hard to prove but I advise would-be survivors to use their common sense here. Nobody can say they rely on water for their mineral intake. You get these from the edible greens around you. Dandelions and Amaranth, for example, have all your minerals. I'm willing to bet that your kidneys will be happy at the increase in your distilled water intake, as you're easing their work load. Here is a link to some information about drinking distilled water and various regions that rely on it. There have never been any tests or experiments that prove distilled water is dangerous in any way. Many doctors say there is nothing wrong with drinking distilled water. The purer the water, the easier it is for your body to utilize and absorb. Your body works hard to purify the fluids it's given and distilled water eases the burden. There will be real problems in your midst that will take all your focus and energy. Having distilled water on hand will only make your life easier in the aftertime.

Here is a full view of the distiller with condensing pot on top. I ended up using the smaller 12 quart pot on bottom and the larger 16 quart pot on top.

Here is the distillation unit that has to be constructed. A 16" pizza pan connected to a 9" pie pan with 4 stainless steel tubes.

Close up of drain tube.

Here is the drain tube connection from inside the pie pan. It must be as flush as possible to allow for instant drainage.

Inside of the pie pan where distilled water collects and drains. Notice how the center has been pounded up and the area where the drain tube is connected has been pounded as flat as possible.

Here is the bottom of the pizza pan that sits on top of the bottom boiling pot.

Here is the 1/2" silicone tubing, split down the middle, being applied to the lip of the boiling pot in order to create the tightest seal.

Here is the silicone tubing fully applied

And finally a pic of the copper/aluminum prototype

Here are the plans provided by Howard that can be used by a professional metal worker or anyone with welding skills that you might know.

Views: 35616

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

James- Do not worry about the pressure as it will escape to push the steam through the condensing coils to become water. As for the rubber seal, couldn't hurt to get a spare. Under normal periodical use they are sturdy, not sure about daily use though.

Never heard of making coffee that way? Suppose I shouldn't have spent all that money on Dunkin Donuts coffee :  )

Hi

Keep it simple!

 

Hi

Everybody can copy this!

Make a hole, buy the parts in a store, use a soft copper tube.

Pic 1, the part in the front is for fixing one of the other 2 adapters optional.

You need no gasket.

The traverse ist for pressing the lid down.

Two revolutions of copper tube are enough. There are 4 in the picture.

Thats all!

Next I will try open fire.

 

Did you fill the copper tube with sand before you bent it?.

Normally to bend copper tubing you need to insert a spring to bend or use one of the plumbers machines, but am not sure if ether could make a coil.

That's the idea ill be using with the stainless bucket but the pipe will most likely be welded on to seal the bucket hence the reason I have gone with the stainless pipe.

Hi

Dont fill with sand, you will have problems to get it out again.

This is a 12mm tube. I used a spring outside and my bare hands. For the narrow I flattened the tube.

Try it an you will see - no problem.

I did not weld. Just stick the tube into the adapter, thats ok.

But take care that the cooler goes straight downward, so no pressure emerges.

I was in Target the other day and took note of their newest bundt pan.  It didn't have the waves around.  It was a solid

round pan with the opening in the middle and this would make a great catchment system with the bundt inside another pot

and a lid on top.  I already have a pressure cooker system going but I'll pick up a couple of these bundts too.

At one point, last year, Guido Krohnke recommended a juice steamer/sap boiler. I finally got around to looking for an old used one and was lucky to get one for $ 6 last week..

Here in DK, we call them "tutti frutti" because they´re manufactured especially for steam juicing berries of all kinds.. here´s a google photo of one :

http://blog.ellengarne.dk/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/saftkoger.jpg

Excellent recommendation Julia. Distillers, especially the more efficient, high producing designs do not need to be run all day long either. A few hours a day using an efficient setup, conserving wood as Julia mentioned, will produce what you need and be the most logical setup if one can secure a safe spot prior to the final weeks. This may require multiple units if the group is large. Being on foot, migrating or finding yourself without any supplies will require more drastic steps to secure safe water. I think the will to live and general mood will be the most important aspects in those situations.
I just bought a steam juicer from the US on Ebay for $59, great value.

Malou (Marie Louise) Geleff said:

At one point, last year, Guido Krohnke recommended a juice steamer/sap boiler. I finally got around to looking for an old used one and was lucky to get one for $ 6 last week..

Here in DK, we call them "tutti frutti" because they´re manufactured especially for steam juicing berries of all kinds.. here´s a google photo of one :

http://blog.ellengarne.dk/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/saftkoger.jpg

Hi Mega. This is excellent!!! I didnt read through the whole thing (I will later :) ).

I like the way you have extended the pipes between the containers. It prevents the heat from the bottom vessel from heating up the cooling vessel..

 

Now, you said this produces 1/2 a gallon in an hour. It seems like the limiting factor here is being able to heat the bottom vessel enough to drive the steam through the four pipes. Instead of four pipes, what if you had 8 pipes? I think that would increase the efficiency.

Yes? No?

Because you have to be able to build enough pressure to drive all that water through those narrow pipes. But if you instead had more pipes (like 8 for instance), then this would reduce the amount of time needed to bring all the water from the bottom vessel to the distilled pot - Not to mention the added stability. Anyone agree or disagree?

 

EDIT: Ok. I just saw carrie's post above. That is exactly what I'm talking about. Notice the sieves in the container in between. The more number of holes you have, the faster you will be able to distill the water....

Randy, I find the limiting factor in this design is in fact the total surface area the 9" pie pan gives in order to condense the steam and not the amount of steam that can travel through the 4 tubes. However the 9" pie pan is easy for anyone to purchase and everyone is free to experiment with the design. It would be nice to actually have a smaller distiller design that can be put into a backpack, such as something designed using metal measuring cups. I have yet to come across a distiller that can produce more than a 1/2 gallon per hour. By having more than one distiller, you increase your chances of having one undamaged through the shift as well as the ability to produce more distilled water if necessary. My opinion would be that having several smaller distillers as opposed to a massive single unit would be best.

I understand that some people may find themselves in a barren landscape without any trees or other vegetation that can provide fuel for fire. This is a very tricky situation indeed. I've seen in Ireland how they dig up peat in slabs and dry it to use for fire fuel, but they have the right climate to create those bogs. Using "cow pies" assumes you have a nice herd of cattle, unlikely for anyone after the shift. There is the gross concept of utilizing human waste as fire fuel but that would require more waste than available and would be best used as fertilizer. If there isn't access to wood or dead vegetation that can be kept dry, my guess is that you will have to deal the best you can and keep going no matter what. In this situation, a water filter would only last so long and it's unlikely that a person would be able to test their water from time to time to ensure the filter is working properly, but any kind of water purification is better than nothing if faced with the impossibility of heating water. It makes me wonder how Moses and his people could survive in the direct path of volcanic gloom. There must have been some kind of heavy metal poisoning after 40 years in the midst of volcanic ash. The Zetas said he was guided by a pillar of fire in the right direction but I don't think they distilled or filtered any of their water, yet survived. That can be used for inspiration and hope, because if they could survive while walking towards the eruption at Thera, then survival for those not in the path of a volcano can certainly be attainable.

Some ZT on Moses

"Pole shifts have happened to the Earth regularly, for countless times, and each time the volcanoes react and life is gloomy afterwards. The last pole shift, during the Jewish Exodus, had Moses wandering in the "Valley of the Shadow of Death" for 40 years, because he was downwind of the large volcanic eruption at Thera. Yet Moses and his people survived! Then look around you at the current rich vegetation that exists on Earth today! Did this all evolve just since the days of Moses? Did all life die out during the time of Moses?"

I just read about the water cone, brought to my attention by Krisztina on the live chat for this week. A solar still design that may not produce alot, but built to a larger scale or utilizing multiple stills, could be the answer to those without access to fire fuel. Harvesting fog is also recommended. I am willing to bet that in warm climates, the solar still design will still function without direct sunlight. I have a gallon iced tea jug, with a small amount left, sitting in a room that for various reasons remains roughly 8o degrees F, and has the condensation all over inside, meaning sunlight isn't absolutely necessary as long as the air temperature is warm.

Reply to Discussion

RSS

SEARCH PS Ning or Zetatalk

 
Search:

This free script provided by
JavaScript Kit

Donate

Donate to support Pole Shift ning costs. Thank you!

© 2024   Created by 0nin2migqvl32.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service