Please Place your Planet X Related Captures Here

[Moderating Staff]

Due to the expectation of increased "Signs in the sky",

this post was created to collect videos and photos of Planet X and other related effects for better organization.
Please save your images and videos here, that other members can help with further analysis.

Always provide a source for the images you post, and if you are the source please provide the date, time and general location of your photos & videos.

Related Informations: Planet X Personas Second Sun Shrouded Monster Planet X Moon Swirls [2] Earthquake Lights Earthquake Clouds Neon Swirls Electromagnetic Swirls Radar Circles The Dark Twin Dead on and Deadly

Additional Informations from the F.A.Q: Q: What is Planet X/ Nibiru ..? http://www.zetatalk.com/science/s58.htm http://www.zetatalk.com/index/zeta202.htm http://www.zetatalk.com/science/s04.htm More info: http://www.zetatalk.com/science/s00.htm Q: How does the path of Planet X/ Nibiru looks like? https://poleshift.ning.com/profiles/blogs/planet-x-path-1 Q: What is the "Earth Wobble"? https://poleshift.ning.com/forum/topics/explaining-the-earth-wobble Q: Why is Planet X/ Nibiru not always visible in the sky? Planet X is seen most readily at sunrise or sunset, when light in the red spectrum curves over the horizon and the glare of white light is reduced. Red light bends most readily, and the charged dust cloud shrouding Planet X is composed primarily of red iron oxide particles.[...] The Zetas are frequently asked to pinpoint the spot where Planet X could be sighted, but it is a complicated picture! - Read more: http://www.zetatalk.com/newsletr/issue262.htm ▪ Funnled MoonSwirls [Link] ▪ When can Planet X be seen naked eye? [Link] ▪ Amateur images [Link] ▪ Second Sun in the Clouds [Link] ▪ Second Sun Visibility [Link]

Please place SOHO & STEREO and Magnetosphere images here

 

 

Comment by stephan grumbach on May 5, 2011 at 10:03am

Easy Lens Flare Testing

1.)  Make an image with your camera and identify supposed objects	2.) Start to move your finger from the sun side over the sun in front of your camera,
3.) until your finger covers the sun, if the dot disappears it is a flare if not it is an object.	4.) Move your finger from the flare/object side to the sun if the dot appears in front of your finger it is a flare

 

Easy Reflection Testing

 

Beware of the Glare

More Video captures: https://poleshift.ning.com/video/video/listFeatured

[Selim KARABIYIK]

Hi JP, I didn't know about sun dogs either, so my previous comment needs modification: The body on the right is not a reflection or flare. That's true, but it is only a sun dog; it wasn't created by an individual light source other than the sun.

 

A sun dog or sundog (scientific name parhelion, plural parhelia, from Greek parēlion, (παρήλιον), παρά(beside) + ήλιος(sun), "beside the sun"; also called a mock sun^{[citation needed]} or a phantom sun^{[citation needed]}) is an atmospheric phenomenon that creates bright spots of light in the sky, often on a luminous ring or halo on either side of the sun.^[1]

Sundogs may appear as a colored patch of light to the left or right of the sun, 22° distant and at the same distance above the horizon as the sun, and in ice halos. They can be seen anywhere in the world during any season, but they are not always obvious or bright. Sundogs are best seen and are most conspicuous when the sun is low.

Formation and characteristics

Parhelion over the Kluane Range viewed from the Alaska Highway

Sundogs are made commonly of plate-shaped hexagonal ice crystals in high and cold cirrus clouds or, during very cold weather, by ice crystals called diamond dust drifting in the air at low levels. These crystals act as prisms, bending the light rays passing through them with a minimum deflection of 22°. If the crystals are randomly oriented, a complete ring around the sun is seen — a halo. But often, as the crystals sink through the air they become vertically aligned, so sunlight is refracted horizontally — in this case, sundogs are seen.

As the sun rises higher, the rays passing through the crystals are increasingly skewed from the horizontal plane. Their angle of deviation increases and the sundogs move further from the sun.^[2] However, they always stay at the same elevation as the sun.

Sundogs are red-colored at the side nearest the sun. Farther out the colors grade through oranges to blue. However, the colors overlap considerably and so are muted, never pure or saturated. The colors of the sundog finally merge into the white of the parhelic circle (if the latter is visible).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sun_dog

 

This is another typical sundog.

 

[JP]

Thanks for the responses everybody. I was not aware of the " Sun Dog " .. That explains a lot. I see that when you see a sun dog it is known to represent rain may be on the way. Unfortunately Central Texas is in one of the worst droughts I have ever seen and have yet have a rain that will fill the lakes. Hopefully that will change.

 

Check out these two comparisons same street about same time in the morning, Street direction shows exactly SW on Google maps. I am assuming this has something to do with the solstice.

 

 

12/7/2010    07:47.05   Sun Dog on right of stoplight.

 

5/7/2011    07:51.19  Another picture taken with the series that I have recently put on this blog.

[Selim KARABIYIK]

I took this picture in May 18 2008, 19:37, in Urgup, Nevsehir, Turkey with my cellphone whose lens has a diameter of 2 0r 3 mm. Although the sun was about to set, the sunlight was strong  enough to create a lens flare. There is no lens reflection.

[Selim KARABIYIK]

Hi JP, thanks for the photo. Although your pic has a reflection and some lens flares, the body on the right is not a reflection or flare. Is it an optical reflection on the water molecules in the clouds or is it an individual light source is difficult to decide by just looking at this photo. Peace. Selim

[JP]

WHAT IS THIS?

 

[bill]

another picture taken using another mobile phone on the 5th of May 2011 around 3pm

 

[bill]

this picture is taken at the same time but with a different cellphone

 

[bill]

 

picture taken today at 1pm NZ time in Auckland

 

 

  

[Selim KARABIYIK]

Lens Flare – Digital Photography Tip of the Week

January 24th, 2007 | Author: Chris

Lens flare can occur when a bright light source appears in or at the very edge of a photograph and is often characterized by sun spots appearing throughout the image. It can also show up in your photographs as low contrast areas in your image. While the sun spots can sometimes add to your photo, the loss of contrast associated with flare rarely does.

Lens flare is caused when light enters the lens at such an angle that the light rays do not completely flow through the lens, but instead are reflected back and forth between lens elements. The sun spots created typically show the shape of the diaphragm (aperture blades) the camera was using at the time the photo was created. A lens with a 5 blade diaphragm will produce sun spots with 5 sides. The more problematic issue with flare though is the lack of contrast flare can introduce into a photo.

Lens manufacturers create lens hoods to help minimize lens flare and are made to fit a particular lens focal length but may not always be sufficient to block all of the flare. Lens hoods made for zoom lenses do not work as well as those made for prime (single focal length) lenses as the amount of coverage needed when zoomed to it’s longest focal length often creates a scenario when the lens is zoomed out to it’s shortest focal length, the lens hood itself will become part of the photo and cause vingnetting. As such, lens hoods are usually made to work best at the widest setting on the lens and become less effective the more the lens is zoomed in.
To prevent lens flare it is necessary to shade the lens from the light source. You can do this using a manufacturer supplied lens hood, your hand, a hat, a reflector or any other object that can block the light from falling on your lens. Just be sure that you do not place whatever you use to block the light so close that is can be seen in your photograph. A good rule of thumb is that the lens is in shadow, you will eliminate the flare.

The sequence of photos above were all shot with the same settings on the camera within 3 minutes of each other. The first image shows distinct lens flare with both the loss of contrast and sun spots easily visible. The second shows a slight loss of contrast on the upper left side of the bridge structure, but the reflector I used to block the sunlight is visible in the same corner. The third image shows a photo properly photographed subject without flare or the reflector used to block the sun. In order to get the shot, I needed to move my camera and recompose the photograph. Another alternative is to position yourself so that an object within your frame blocks the light source partially or completely, as I have done in this photo below. The sun spots are still visible, though overall contrast has been only slightly affected. In this instance, I think the lens flare adds to the photograph.

Lens flare happens to every photographer. It is inevitable. But a little knowledge up front on what causes it and how to reduce it can ensure you get photographs you are happy with.

Until next time, happy shooting.

http://pcin.net/update/2007/01/24/lens-flare-digital-photography-ti...

[Selim KARABIYIK]

Hi Michelle, the strange thing about your photo and Steve's is that although they were taken in Italy and Utah, USA, in two different places, the location of the orbs are very close to each other. They are difficult pictures to comment. I hope they are not reflections. Unless filter is used, it is hard to reach a conclusion about the images, because reflections are real in the images like the photo itself.