The following water distiller design is derived from the design that Mike offered on the Troubled Times website. This design, with it's condensing pot, can produce a 1/2 gallon of distilled water every hour, or 1 cup (8 oz.) every 7.5 minutes. The parts are all stainless steel. Water distillation is the one and only method recommended by the Zetas to purify your water. In all likelihood, water distillation will be needed before the hour of the poleshift even arrives. Building a water distiller seems simple but it is not all that easy. An efficient water distiller that can be operated with any heat source, most importanly fire, cannot necessarily be bought, so many look to other ways of water purification, mainly the water filter. It will always be a matter of opinion, but for those with children who will depend on them, it is urged to take a hard look at reality and what a water filter can do for you in the long term. Survival is no easy matter regardless of preparations, but since water is one of the most important aspects of survival, it should be one of the first steps taken.

I've been experimenting with different distiller designs for several years now, all the while I knew Mike's design was the best. I was intimidated by it since I had no metal working skills and wood was hard enough to work with. All the designs I came up with didn't even come close to what Mike's design could accomplish, so I sort of gave up for a while. Finally I got my act together since I don't like giving up, and created a prototype using aluminum and copper parts, since they are easier to work with than stainless steel. There were a number of failures on my part and the feeling that I wasn't going to conquer this task. I do not have welding skills, but I bought a mini kit and soon found out that I can't even keep the flame lit once the oxygen is turned on. After about 10 seconds of trying to weld, the flame would burn out, and make a loud noise at the same time which added to my insecurity. I finally bought a simple and safer propane torch and decided on lead free solder. It took me a while to get the hang of it and I found that you need the soldering flux that plumbers use or the solder will not bond well. But once it's properly done, the connection is very sturdy. Finally I had a complete distiller made of aluminum and copper that performed to my expectations of a 1/2 gallon every hour. Then the complaints came in that distilled water leached aluminum and copper, making it unsafe to drink in the long term. Apparently only stainless steel was acceptable. I didn't buy into this myth because logic and common sense tell a different story (note water tests for proof), but in an effort to appease the crowd and hopefully make a difference in the lives of children that must rely on adults for their future, an all stainless steel water distiller was made which costs more and is a metal that is much tougher to work with.

Plans are provided by Howard based on the specifications given to him and these can be taken to a metal worker if you do not feel comfortable making one yourself. In fact, I would recommend it since welding would be considered stronger and more reliable than soldering. If you choose to solder like I did, it should be noted that solder does not bond well with stainless steel, so all connections will have to be made extra tight to begin with and the solder acts like more of a gasket. But with aluminum and copper, the solder bonds very well.

This distiller utilizes a stainless steel pot to boil the contaminated water. A stainless steel pizza pan then sits on top. By using a pizza pan, it can be used on just about anything that can boil water, making it versatile. The steam travels up the 4 stainless steel tubes, into the stainless steel pie pan, where it hits the bottom of the stainless steel condensing pot that sits on top of the pie pan. The water in this pot creates the necessary temperature change to condense the steam into distilled water, where it collects in the pie pan and empties through the stainless steel drain tube. A high temperature, inert food grade silicone tube can be attached to the drain tube in order to allow water to drain into a collection container of your choice. Make sure the silicone tube has the same OD (outer diameter) of the drain tube, in this case 1/4". If the silicone tube is even just a bit larger, chances are it won't fit tight enough. To enlarge the end of a silicone tube to fit perfectly, heat it up in boiling water and then insert an object such as a pen to enlarge the tube just enough to fit over the stainless steel drain tube perfectly.

The part that will have to be constructed consists of a 16" stainless steel pizza pan, a 9" stainless steel pie pan, 4 pieces of stainless steel tubing - 1/2" OD (outer diameter) - cut to 8" each, and 1 stainless steel tube - 1/4 " OD - cut to 7-8" as the drainage tube. High temperature silicone tubing also comes in handy. It's guaranteed inert for beverages and withstands temps of up to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. I use 1/2" OD silicone tubing, split down the middle with scissors, and place it around the lip of the bottom boiling pot to create a better seal so steam will not escape and the system remains pressurized. The top condensing pot provides weight that seems to keep things tight enough so steam will either not escape, or very little escapes. I find that even if a small amount of steam escapes, the production results are the same. If enough steam escapes though, the system won't be pressurized very well and production can be cut in half, which is actually still more water than most electric distillers on the market can produce.

Feel free to experiment if you wish with the design. Whether you make your distiller from all stainless steel, or an aluminum/copper combo, you will have a means of purifying any water source at your disposal in the aftertime. Bacteria and viruses will be killed by the boiling process and all heavy metals including lead and mercury will be left behind as the water evaporates on it's way to the condensing chamber. Further testing will be done to deal with chemicals that also evaporate and condense such as alcohol and petrol chemicals. You will know if this is in your water in any case from both the smell and the sheen it would produce on top of the water. I will be testing to see how long it takes to boil these contaminants off, or if they can be removed effectively enough through regular charcoal and/or sand. All results will be posted and it's encouraged that others try as well and post any constructive ideas.

The following water purity tests were conducted with a TDS meter. TDS stands for Total Dissolved Solids which are the total amount of mobile charged ions, including minerals, salts, or metals dissolved in a given volume of water. TDS, which is based on conductivity, is expressed in parts per million (ppm). TDS includes any conductive inorganic element present other than the pure water molecules. TDS affects everything that consumes, lives in or uses water, from fish and plants to plumbing and laboratories. For people, the lower the TDS level in the water you drink, the more efficiently your body's cells are hydrated. The higher the TDS level in water, the greater the probability of harmful contaminants that can pose health risks or hinder the absorption of water. The U.S. EPA's Maximum Contaminant Level of TDS for human consumption is 500 ppm. Though I've seen water testing done first hand at a water treatment plant, and after the first stage of purification, the water was at 500 ppm and it looked dirty and smelled rotten. The purest water after all treatments was 50 ppm and was worthy of any bottled water. After this water made it's way through all the pipes to your house, it would no longer be so pure. TDS meters can be used to check the performance of water filters and ensure your tap water is acceptable.

The TDS meter used for these tests is brand new and I manually calibrated it using a hydroponic calibrating solution set at 342 ppm. When choosing a calibrating solution, make sure to get one that is closest to your target readings to ensure maximum accuracy. For example, 1500 ppm would be too high, but would still give you acceptable accuracy. The TDS meter used in these tests has an accuracy discrepancy of +/- 2%, which is very acceptable. Each water sample was tested multiple times to ensure accuracy as well. Here are the results from round 1 -

Hot tap water stored in a tank - 200 ppm
Iced Tea sweetened with HFCS - 180 ppm
Cold running tap water - 145-150 ppm
Cold tap water run through a Pure Source 2 water filter - 130 ppm
First cup of distilled water from aluminum/copper water distiller - 10 ppm
Second cup of distilled water from aluminum/copper water distiller - 7 ppm
First cup of distilled water from all stainless steel water distiller - 2 ppm
Third cup of distilled water from all stainless steel water distiller - 1 ppm

That is correct. There were only 1-2 particles per million detectable in the distilled water from the stainless steel distiller. It just doesn't get much purer than that. There were a few more particles detected in the aluminum/copper distilled water. The condensing pot used with that distiller was also aluminum. A very old pot that looked questionable but I used it anyway for the sake of science. 7-10 ppm is still incredibly pure and is too small of an amount to cause any long term problems. I would be more concerned about what the 130 ppm is in the filtered water, but still, that is as pure of water as a person really needs.

That leaves one of the final arguments, which is that somehow you will lose minerals by drinking distilled water. This one is hard to prove but I advise would-be survivors to use their common sense here. Nobody can say they rely on water for their mineral intake. You get these from the edible greens around you. Dandelions and Amaranth, for example, have all your minerals. I'm willing to bet that your kidneys will be happy at the increase in your distilled water intake, as you're easing their work load. Here is a link to some information about drinking distilled water and various regions that rely on it. There have never been any tests or experiments that prove distilled water is dangerous in any way. Many doctors say there is nothing wrong with drinking distilled water. The purer the water, the easier it is for your body to utilize and absorb. Your body works hard to purify the fluids it's given and distilled water eases the burden. There will be real problems in your midst that will take all your focus and energy. Having distilled water on hand will only make your life easier in the aftertime.

Here is a full view of the distiller with condensing pot on top. I ended up using the smaller 12 quart pot on bottom and the larger 16 quart pot on top.

Here is the distillation unit that has to be constructed. A 16" pizza pan connected to a 9" pie pan with 4 stainless steel tubes.

Close up of drain tube.

Here is the drain tube connection from inside the pie pan. It must be as flush as possible to allow for instant drainage.

Inside of the pie pan where distilled water collects and drains. Notice how the center has been pounded up and the area where the drain tube is connected has been pounded as flat as possible.

Here is the bottom of the pizza pan that sits on top of the bottom boiling pot.

Here is the 1/2" silicone tubing, split down the middle, being applied to the lip of the boiling pot in order to create the tightest seal.

Here is the silicone tubing fully applied

And finally a pic of the copper/aluminum prototype

Here are the plans provided by Howard that can be used by a professional metal worker or anyone with welding skills that you might know.

Views: 22045

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

MegaMontana, thank you so much for sharing this lifesaving information. I tried to purchase the distiller recommended in the X newsletter, but once I'd found the manufacturers website, that model had sold out! love to all x

MegaMontana- Looks impressive, but seems complicated to construct. I went with a more simple route. Very, very similar to this attached Youtube video. No welding/soldering needed at all, just basic enough for anyone to build. The best thing is I bought 3 pressure cookers to use for backups or bulk distilling all at once or I can screw in the plug and pressure cook or for canning food. It can also be constructed with simple hand tools.

Just my two cents.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQh9yd49Qc0

 

Keep us apprised of your efforts as we appreciate them

Actually I built one very simply by using an old pressure cooker we had lying around.  I simply bored out the hole in the center of the lid to accommodate a 3/8" (or 1/2") gas line adapter (and it can still be used as a normal pressure cooker by removing hose and screwing cap on adapter).  Use a standard stainless steel gas connector line from Home Depot (about $10 per 4 feet for the Brasscraft 3/8" OD Low Demand Appliance model that came with 1/2" screw on ends) which can come with various ends.  Just spend some time in the fittings department and come up with the combination you need for for your particular setup.  For a condenser I simply used an old tea kettle (this was aluminum but stainless steel would be best) and enlarged the hole in it's spout lid to take a hose fitting the line will screw into. Then I sit the pot in any larger tub filled with ice/water.  Any excess steam pressure merely lifts the lid but the weight of the hose is enough to keep it closed up to that point. 

Haven't really done a volume per hour run with it yet but does seem to end up with about half the amount of distilled water than one starts off with. Will try to see if I can better seal the system.  Plus I want to install a second valve near the edge of lid (maybe use pressure release hole) for adding water from another hose.  Currently I must turn the heat off, let it cool, then open to add more water.  A bit inefficient. Plus you never want to let system run dry-unless you like the smell of burning metal!

Also I want to add more line to it as well (which will aid in the cooling-especially if routed through water on way to tea kettle).  The whole thing stacks up with the hose coiling around (and holding it together) and can actually be carried with the hose slung over one's shoulder (though the tea kettle lid probably wouldn't take much of that). I also have several 750 liter stainless steel water bottles with lids that have holes in them that I can put in short pieces of 1/2" heavy plastic  hose to feed directly into a personal water bottle which can be removed when full.  They tend to float though so I need a better cooling method for that.

I am building a tall cylindrical multi-fuel stove/oven/heater from an old heavy metal ashtray (10" in diameter about 2.5' in height) as part of a portable unit to be used in any environment for cooking and heating.  It uses sterno, wood, charcoal-virtually anything that burns and I want to install a burner fed by an external propane/butane tank as well.  Plus it's big enough to store smaller pots and extra fuel inside for transport.  The two contraptions fit nicely in a tall slim round plastic garbage container that I have attached straps to for quickie bugout and while I have not tested it yet, should hopefully float upright if towed behind a boat or raft.

 

Essentially, reliable distilled drinking water and a versatile cooking solution should be an essential combo in any sizable survival kit.  The trick is keeping things compact, rugged and simple enough to be usable under the most trying conditions.  One should always take one's "inventions" out into the wild (or at least simulated) to be sure they work as expected and to practice the procedures so they will be second nature when environment and stress take their inevitable toll.

Am going with the pressure cooker to make distilled water, made the fire range for log burning have 9' of 10mm x1mm stainless pipe, just need the pressure cooker ill be buying a 6L stainless, reason being they can take the heat,as you have no real control over the fire, other reason is I can weld the pipe into the stainless cooker lid, and if I buy a stainless bucket the I can also weld the coiled  pipe in to the bottom of the bucket, both lid and bucket will have shorts pipes in them, there may be a plastic pipe between the cooker and the condenser.


YesI actually have been using a Berkey water system at home for a few years (and they have a stainless steel version like the one you showed).  Works quite well for general filtering (and they also have a ceramic filter specifically for flouride you can add) but of course you should stock up on elements.  Again distilling is probably best but the gravity and reverse osmosis ones will handle all the biological and most of the mineral and chemical issues (not sure about nuclear).  A combination of both would be perfect (filter all first then distill after perhaps). Got mine thru efoodsdirect.com which has various specials with them if you get some of the long term storage foods with them.  Good tasting quality food as well!

 

We should probably start a forum on air filtration as well!


James said:

Am going with the pressure cooker to make distilled water, made the fire range for log burning have 9' of 10mm x1mm stainless pipe, just need the pressure cooker ill be buying a 6L stainless, reason being they can take the heat,as you have no real control over the fire, other reason is I can weld the pipe into the stainless cooker lid, and if I buy a stainless bucket the I can also weld the coiled  pipe in to the bottom of the bucket, both lid and bucket will have shorts pipes in them, there may be a plastic pipe between the cooker and the condenser.

I have never herd of a gravity filtration systems, but I found this on the net were I live in the UK

http://www.itdoesthejob.com/gravity-filter-systems only draw back filters only last a year, so you can buy some and keep as a back up, thanks ken for the info.

 

Many feel they need to use a pressure cooker, and that is fine with me, everyone must make their own decisions. However, it is not required as mentioned above since steam does not escape the above design to begin with. The reason WHY 1/2 gallon is produced every hour is because of the CONDENSING POT, a simple pot filled with water that sits on top. Without this, you do not get the same production. The water in the condensing pot, DOES NOT need to be changed when it gets hot, it still has the same production value hot or cold.

If your location does not have access to firewood or anything that can make fire, then your problems have only begun. Those is this situation will have to be extra resourceful in order to survive. Some make the argument that somehow firewood will disappear or rot away too quick to use. I'm not sure where the facts are to support that but common sense says otherwise just like common sense says distilled water from an aluminum/copper distiller is safe to drink, despite the self righteous alarm ringers. Water filters will never be as reliable or efficient as a properly made distiller. I have found many do not even last as long as they say, which is usually 6 months. But like I said above, it's always a matter of opinion and ego, with those who can't achieve distillation coming up with all manner of reasons to confuse the issue and hopefully keep the common man from surviving.

Various ZT -

"Water distillation is only required for drinking and cooking water, not for crops or washing" ZT 1/10

"This has been much discussed on the Troubled Times pages as we early on warned about the danger of lead in drinking water after the shift. This will occur not just from surface water, polluted from volcanic dust, but also well water coming in contact with magma that has risen up close to the surface. It takes many decades for lead to leach out and return to a depth where it will not create problems. In the meantime, man is best advised to distill his water. Fish will not pick up lead, though it will pick up Mercury. Many plants and animals filter out lead, some better than others, so this could be researched. Should one become sick, in spite of precautions, or because they were not informed ahead of time, eating a diet high in Vitamin C and iron will help the body eliminate lead. Research these methods, as they are means even a common man without medical attention can rely upon, after the shift."  ZT 8/26

"Lead poisoning, in order to be avoided, requires distillation of drinking water." ZT 11/28

"Volcanic ash will be a significant problem after the shift, creating a gloom that will not dissipate for 25 years on average, depending upon locale. Volcanic ash will also poison the ground water, which is why we recommend that survivors distill their drinking water to remove all heavy metals as well as kill parasites." ZT 5/10

 

Anyone who claims they cannot distill water is kidding themselves.  Water can be distilled, albeit slowly, using just a pot, lid, and cup suspended with wire from the lid handle.   

Many if not most trees will die in the gloom following the pole shift.  There should be no acute shortage of firewood in rural areas following the pole shift when all drinking water must be distilled (the problem will be obtaining dry wood, and no one who hopes to survive should be in any cities or large towns anyway).  What do people use for fuel now in areas lacking sufficient wood for fuel?  There are obviously many alternatives to wood!  So why do people pretend they cannot distill water due to lack of wood for fires?

Sounds like a cop-out and lame excuse for being unwilling to accept the Zetas' excellent, scientific advice to distill all drinking water in the Aftertimes regardless of the water source.  How many times do the Zetas have to say it?!

Water filters are not the way to go, period.  Water filters will inevitably run out, then what?  Water filters simply cannot remove all contaminants, viruses, bacteria, lead, and heavy metals, but distilling will.  Distilling water covers all the bases.  Also, I would like to see anyone haul a large, heavy Berkey water filter on foot.  But a pan, lid, and cup easily fit in a backpack and never run out.

Please be sure to tell children suffering or dying from lead poisoning (who are much more susceptible to lead poisoning) or deadly germs that you thought water filters would handle most issues, so you chose not to use easy methods for disillting water because you knew better, okay?

Water filters also are not as trustworthy as they seem. The expected life for any filter can be compromised a number of ways. If a person chooses to trust mankind's promise over raw science, then that is a personal choice that one must live with. A water distiller can get banged up during the shift, but repaired easily, even if you have to resort to some kind of natural glue, such as pine pitch, to seal any breaches in the system sustained during mag 9 quakes. I've seen this done firsthand and works remarkably well. And if a simple sturdy distiller can get banged up, what will happen to your filter system?  In the end, procrastination will get you no where. The Zetas don't recommend distilled water because their fussy, it's because they know their facts and don't hide behind ego driven assumptions.

Another good ZetaTalk that discusses the general attitude towards distillation. The burden of distilling water turns most humans into procrastinators who suddenly are above the general advise of the Zetas when it becomes too much.

ZT June 12, 2010

"Vegetation will absorb heavy metals, often to a degree that surpasses its presence in the soil. Some plants are used to decontaminate soil, in this regard, as they are known to pull the pollutants from the soil. The reason we advise to distill drinking and cooking water but have not mentioned doing so for gardens is because of the burden, at least the perceived burden. It's a matter of psychology. If you tell someone they must brush their teeth daily, you get cooperation, but if you told them this should be done every 5 minutes, you get rebellion or a sense of hopelessness. The advice is shut out, and the teeth not brushed at all because the whole issues seems overbearing, a goal impossible to meet.

What should also be realized is that such polluted soil is rare, and is only in locations where industrial wastes have accumulated. Volcanic ash will not pollute the soil in this way, but it will temporarily pollute the ground water. Fluoride on grass will kill grazing cows after a volcanic eruption, but will not pollute the grasslands long term. It is a surface powdering that is poisonous, and for only a short time until rain water washes it off. Likewise lead will rise from underground, in cracks in the ground, after the shift, pushed up from the magma, so will pollute well water on occasion. This settles back down within years, in those locations where this has occurred, but distilling drinking and cooking water will protect you, as lead is not visible in water.

Fish will pick up mercury, but not lead, in those waters where mercury poisoning from industrial wastes are known. Heavy metals in volcanic ash on the ground will be picked up first by rain, flushing into the local surface water and ponds. Thus water, taken directly into the body by drinking water, is the most likely and dangerous route. These same heavy metals flushed into the ground can be taken up by plants, but since the flushing will occur quickly, and root and stem development takes a long time, this moment is past quickly. You drink faster than a plant can absorb, is what we are saying. A glass of water is quickly in your system, but a plant will not absorb a glass of water in a moment, nor even over several days"

Need to ask should I leave the pressure valve on the cooker or remove it, my own feeling is to leave it on for safety as the camp fire my get very hot, also be a good idea to buy spare rubber seals no idea if they will rot in the package they come in, but in normal times they seem to last a few years.

One thing I will be using to catch the water in will be a camp type Stainless kettle, can also be used to make coffee from the nuts from the oak tree, some thing done in WWII

If you choose to use a pressure cooker, then whatever method you use to drain and collect distilled water should be all that's needed to ensure the pressure cannot build up to a dangerous level. On the subject of seals, one may have to get inventive and resourceful if they break down. I recommend high temp silicone since it doesn't seem to be as vulnerable to deterioration as rubber.

Reply to Discussion

RSS

SEARCH

Donate


Thanks to donations, the annual fund raisers for Ning Fees and ZetaTalk Mirror Sites will not be necessary

© 2014   Created by Gerard Zwaan.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service